there's still a shepherd here, and that changes everything
You climb the serra, arrive, and before you see anyone it's likely you'll hear the bells. Two people have lived here since 1991, a couple who still shepherd goats and sheep. It's not a performance for visitors. It's what remains of the pastoralism that gives the village its name: chico was an old word for pig, chiqueiro was a sty.
Chiqueiro sits on one of the north-facing slopes of the Ribeira de São João basin, on the western flank of the Serra da Lousã, higher up than was usual in these settlements, where the gradients ease a little. It's the same stream that, down below, forms the Praia Fluvial Nossa Senhora da Piedade. Two steep alleys, dark unplastered schist buildings except for the white chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia. Holly trees at the entrance, chestnut groves all around.
The difference from Talasnal and Cerdeira is obvious straight away. Here there's no open door waiting to serve you. The natural pair is next door, Casal Novo, with the same quietness. If you want to see the serra before the weekend traffic, come up here.
good to know
- the couple of residents still herd, and the flocks cross the village
- no restaurant or shop as far as I can find; bring what you need
- the Chapel of Nossa Senhora da Guia is the only plastered, white building
- the PR5 (Rota dos Serranos) links Casal Novo and Talasnal via forest paths
- all the surrounding area is a Site of Community Importance in the Natura 2000 network
