the beach that steals its name from the village on the other bank
The river Mente crosses into Portugal from Spain and, for several kilometres, marks the border between Vinhais and Chaves. The beach takes advantage of that stretch: the water was dammed at a point where the valley opens up enough for a swimming area, right next to the Sandim-Segirei bridge. The leisure park, with a bar, toilets, playground and barbecue grills, is on the Vinhais side. The village that gives it its name, Segirei, is on the opposite bank, already in the Chaves municipality. You're inside the Parque Natural de Montesinho.
The water is always cold, even in August. It's shallow in the dam area, which makes the beach safe for kids. The riverbed is sand and rounded stone. The surroundings are the real draw: steep slopes, oak forest, the constant sound of the current passing the dam.
Just past the beach, in the riverbed, iron-rich mineral water bubbles up, lightly sparkling. These are the Águas de Segirei. There's a tap on site if you want to try it.
One warning: the Mente's flow isn't guaranteed. In dry years the beach shrinks to a puddle and nobody turns up. Before making the trip (and on village roads, any starting point is a long way off), check there'll be water.
the waterfall on the other side
A short distance from the beach, already in Spanish territory, is the Cascata da Cidadela. The border there is more administrative than real: the waterfall has always been treated as part of Segirei by the locals, and was always a gathering point. You reach it on foot via the old smuggling paths.
The circular trail linking the beach and the waterfall is about 14 km and passes through the Spanish village of Soutochão. It's moderate, along the old border tracks, with stone walls marking the way. Don't expect to do the beach and the trail on the same day. Pick one.
be ready for
- low flow in dry years
- bar only open in August, with unpredictable hours
- a long drive along narrow country roads
- barbecue grills available if you get there early
- cold water even at the height of summer
