art deco estado novo selling fruit
The building dates from 1940, by architect Edmundo Tavares, and sits between the Art Deco of the 1930s and the modernism of the Estado Novo regime. The main entrance is covered in azulejo panels with Madeiran regional themes, painted by João Rodrigues and produced at the Fábrica de Loiça de Sacavém. The panels continue inside. Before you look for the stalls, walk around the facade and look at the tiles: it's the best Funchal has in public design from that period.
Inside, the structure is arranged around an open-air central courtyard, with balconies from the upper floors looking down at the stalls below. The fish section is separate, in its own hall with stone counters polished smooth by decades of use. The main entrance opens onto the fruit area, with pyramids of custard apples, Surinam cherries, passion fruits, guavas, Madeiran bananas. Taking photos of the sellers with their fruit is a recognised occupation (and charged accordingly): if you're not buying, at least ask first.
The market runs at two speeds. Early morning it's a real market: Funchal residents doing their shopping, fish just in, vendors restocking the stalls. After ten it's full tourist mode: cruise ships unload groups, and the fruit section turns half-market-half-postcard, with prices to match. For the useful version, go before nine.
Saturday is the big day, with producers from the surrounding area coming to sell directly, especially flowers and mountain produce. It closes at 2pm and Sunday is closed, watch out. On any weekday, the black scabbardfish (typical of the deep waters around Madeira) is the guaranteed star of the fish counter.
the whole scene
- 1940 art deco building, Sacavém azulejo panels at the entrance and inside
- open-air central courtyard with balconies around it
- separate fish hall, with local black scabbardfish as the centrepiece
- Madeiran tropical fruit (custard apple, banana passionfruit, Surinam cherry) at the stalls facing the entrance
- before 9am you get a real market; after that, you get a set
