leiria has a tower with no cathedral and a cathedral with no tower
The local saying tells you almost everything. The bell tower of the Sé de Leiria stands apart from the church body, tucked against the castle hillside. It's a unique case among Portuguese cathedrals. Tradition holds that there was once a small tower of its own, but the bells couldn't reach the other side of the city, and in 1770 Bishop D. Miguel Bulhões e Sousa had this tower built somewhere else.
The Diocese of Leiria had been created in 1545 by a papal bull of Pope Paul III, at the request of D. João III. Construction of the cathedral began in 1550-1559 to plans by Afonso Álvares and followed the model that Miguel de Arruda had drawn up for the new cathedrals of the reign, in the line of those at Miranda do Douro and Portalegre. The solemn consecration only took place in 1791, more than two centuries after the first stone.
Inside, three naves of equal height, separated by cruciform-section pillars, with ribbed and star vaults. The transept projects and the east end has two small apsidioles flanking the chancel, which is deeper and has a coffered barrel vault. The chancel altarpiece is from the 17th century, with paintings by Simão Rodrigues. The cloister is attached to the east end, in three wings.
what you'll find inside
- the bell tower separated from the church body, unique in the country
- three naves of equal height, with cruciform-section pillars and ribbed vaults
- the chancel with a coffered barrel vault and altarpiece with paintings by Simão Rodrigues
- the Mannerist cloister in three wings, attached to the east end
- the sacristy lined with polychrome patterned tiles
